McNeil River

It seems hyperbolic to call this the trip of a lifetime, after having spent so much time in so many wonderful places.  Suffice to say, this one was a standout.

B. and I entered the lottery in January while getting fishing licenses.  As detailed on the website, the lottery it for a small number of permits to travel to and stay in the sanctuary.  The permit itself is quite inexpensive.  The cost comes from the flight there – over an hour across the Cook Inlet from Homer, past Mt. Augustine. 

http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=viewinglocations.mcneilriver

We didn’t win the lottery, but were waitlisted.  Surprisingly, we were notified that we could fill two open slots in May, during the first week guests are permitted (6/7-6-10).  It seems that these are less popular, on the assumption that the bears aren’t out.  Au contraire!  The bears aren’t on the McNeil River proper.  Rather, they are happily chasing the early red salmon run on the smaller Mikfik Creek.

 

We were joined by five more bear watchers and two staff, down from their usual three staff.  Budget cuts.  Three of our troupe had been to the refuge before, and had lots of good advice.  I really appreciated the way people pulled together.  Rather than trying to juggle around doing everything solo, all the guests shared in cooking, cleaning, hauling water from the creek, purifying the water, and starting up the wood burning stove in the cook shack.  Really, it was quite plush.  The wood burning sauna was a huge treat in the evenings, and the only version of a bath we had.

But we were here for the bears.  Oh my the bears!  And the fish, the bald eagles, the fox, and the wolf.

It’s amazing how hundreds of pounds of mammal can just disappear in the sedge flats.  Then two little fuzzy ears will pop up – right where you would have sworn there was no bear.  And how little interest in humans these bears take.  The Refuge is just that, and these bears do not associate humans with food, hunting, or any other activities.  They just ignore us.  We sat on a gravel bar in Mikfik creek, with bears crossing on either side of us as the fished for the reds.  Thy passed within 50 feet.  It was astonishing and amazing.

Also discovered that my tent can withstand 40 mph sustained winds.  Thanks Pam!