I could have.....

Had a REALLY big bag.  But mine's better.  I can lift it up on the overhead luggage racks on German trains.

Aachen

My first time in Germany!  Did a day trip with hosts Jim, Jan, Hope, and Luci (and yes, two Lucy/is has been very tricky).  Drove through Belgium, the Netherlands, and ended in Germany all within 90 minutes.  We went to the Christmas Market at Aachen.  Ate all kinds of things I would characterize as "fair food", but for high culture also visited the Cathedral with Charlemagne's Tomb.

Dad - they take gingerbread very, very seriously here.  You'd love it.

Bruges 2

No really, howling wind.

Bruges

So, you go to Bruges.  Gorgeous place.  Wonderful architecture.  Foul weather whipping in from the North Sea, but that's nothing you haven't faced before.  You eat frittes in the main square, because it's the done thing.  Then, thinking to burn them off, you climb the belfry.  Scary, narrow stairs.  Only one set, so people are coming down on you as you crawl up.  Get to the top.  Howling wind.  Then, the bells start in.  Three feet over your head.  Deaf and numb.  I love it here. 

S

Brussels

I braved the bus/train/metro/tram system to Louvain-le-Neuve to go to the Herge Museum.  Really very easy.  I keep waiting for someone to be rude to me, but it hasn’t happened yet.  For those of you who are not Tintin fans, it would not have been an enthralling excursion.  But for myself, it was just wonderful: all kinds of background on the creation of the stories, drawing, the studios, etc.  I had already read several books on the subject and about Herge himself (at least those in English and translated to English).  But this had all new dimensions.  Unfortunately, the museum does not allow photography.  So I could not capture the bits that were so appealing – the chandelier made up of every character in the books (over 200 individual faces) and the list in Herge’s handwriting with the top ten given names for Captain Haddock.  Although Archibald eventually won, number 4 was Patrick  (!!) and number 5 was Marmaduke.  The notation next to Marmaduke was, “preposterous”. 

Visiting Brussels was not really a high priority, beyond the Herge Museum, but I have to say I am delighted with this town.  Today I went to the Musee Magritte.  Other than the sloppy 1945-1950s-era stuff, almost everything of his is so visually appealing I feel like I could live with it.  Not true of the stuff in the Musee de Beaux Artes next door.  Waking up to Breughel, Van Dyck, Ensor, and most especially Hireronymus Bosch?  No way.  Uff da.

Wandered from the museums to the nearby parks.  I was very taken with the Grand Sablon, if only because it’s the only park with a working fountain right now.  And given the weather predictions and the growing ice in the basin, I expect they’ll be turning that off pretty soon.

Last stop of the day was Wittamer Chocolatiers.  Obviously there are many chocolatiers to choose from in Brussels, but this one came recommended by my hosts.  I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.  Because sugar coma begins in three….two….  

New Day, New Country

Yesterday was spent exploring the uses of my Eurail Pass.  Hopped on the train down from the Alps.  In a hilarious bit of small world syndrome, I was seated across from the musician from the evening before at Monkey Bar.  We chatted our way down the hill.  I wound up on about 4 different trains as I puttered my way to Lyon, then decided to take the express to Brussels.

Once in Brussels, my phone finally worked (still no idea how to make that happen regularly, so don't bother with trying to call me) and I reached Jan.  She guided me through the steps to reach their place - Metro, tram.  I am now ensconced with the nicest Scots hosts on the planet!

Off to explore the Musee Herge today!

Cocoa

Lazy last day in Chamonix, as I plan to hit the rails tomorrow.  The girls took me to their favorite hot chocolate shop.  Ten kinds....just awesome.  I had the Chocolate d'India with cardamom.  A new favorite!

Grands Montets!!  Stephanie, Lucy and Claire.

Vive le Pow!

We had a brief break in the snow, as seen in the photo previously, and then the snow just kept coming.  So yesterday was spent hanging out with Claire, then hiking Savoyard and sledding!  Then down to The Pub where Steph was working her first shift of the season for the opening day event.  We made her make us spiked hot chocolate and chatted with all the patrons.

It could be argued that I came to Europe to experience different cultures (hey, anthropology degrees), but that is not the case here.  Ski towns are ski towns, and I’ve spent quality time in ski towns.  There ARE differences here.  I’ve certainly skied with my fair share of Aussies and Kiwis, but the English, Irish, and Scottish make up a big portion of the population here.  Plus some Zimbabweans, Swedes, Finns, Russians, and – of course – French.  Apparently we were actually “sledging” last night, per the lingo.  Even Claire and Steph have picked up Brit accents and slang from their constant contact with those islanders.  And the approach to skiing is a little more serious to some of the people here.  The big debate yesterday was whether to buy the €20 insurance that pays for the cost of the helicopter ride off the mountain if you are injured.

Today the lifts remained closed, either due to avalanche danger or lack of employees.  Every answer is different.  So Claire, Stephanie and I hiked up Les Planards for my first ever snowboarding excursion.  The snow is deep and light, making the going slow and the landings soft.  But getting up again was quite a challenge!  I made some less-than-completely-embarrassing turns.  After skiing for 36 years (not counting the in utero time), snowboarding does not feel natural. 

The clouds lifted for about half the day and I finally saw Mont Blanc.  Doesn’t look as impressive from this side, but nevertheless beautiful.  Looks like we’ll be trying to real skiing tomorrow.  I’ll try to remember the camera!

Cham 2

It stopped snowing (very briefly) yesterday.  Long enough to prove that there are actually mountains here.  It's snowing again today.  Making plans for sledding, cocoa, and skiing in the next 24 hours.  Claire's ski boots fit me (she'll be snowboarding),  but her pants don't.  I'll be borrowing gear off about 3 people.  Everyone is so nice!