Roma

Woke early and accidentally saw Saint Peter’s Square at dawn.  I was navigationally erring.  Wandered back east, over the Tiber, through the Piazza del Popolo and up to the Borghese Gardens.

And suddenly, I can breathe again.  Rome in January is pretty deserted.  No crowds, no smoke, very little graffiti, and plenty of friendly nods and “buon giorno”s.  Perhaps it’s Western prejudice, but I am far more comfortable here.  Even the weather seems better.  50s and drizzling, but green grass and trees.  The umbrella sellers are located every 20 meters and can’t understand why I refuse to buy one.   Pffff!  All the street corners in Rome seem to have clocks, and I have not yet seen one with the correct time. 

The Galleria Borghese Museo has a very strict ticketing reservation system, but I take the risk that no one will be there early on a Sunday and I luck out.  No problems whisking in at the 9am opening.  After wandering the galleries I moved on to the Capuchin Crypt, as recommended by Rick Steves.  I do not recommend it.  The Paris Catacombs are a far better experience.  Then, following a fueling lunch, into the Museo Nazionale Romano.   

While the Borghese is much smaller than the Nazionale, the space itself is a work of art.  The walls, the ceilings, and the floors were all detailed, patterned, tiled, painted, or otherwise adorned.  I wouldn’t call it overwhelming, but perhaps harmoniously busy.  With only 20 rooms, many of them quite small, it is a jewel box museum.  In contrast, the Nazionale is a modern museum, despite the building being historical in the American sense.  Floors, walls, ceilings, and lights are all neutral, allowing the displayed pieces to stand out.  Four floors worth of pieces.  Exhausting.  It’s very illuminating coming here after Athens to see the extent of copying done by the Romans.  The mosaics were my favorites.

[Side note: do not take the elevator in the Nazionale.  Not safe.]

The siesta is such a good idea when traveling this way!  Not that I actually napped.  I just rested my feet and checked out the internet.  Skype really is handy, isn’t it?  Then off to a proper dinner.  I enjoyed bruschetta, ravioli, wine, dolce toscanella, and lemoncello.  Wow do I feel happy now.