I haven’t spent much time thinking about my life skills
lately, other than to acknowledge that I need to practice cooking more. And learning to build my own home would be
great. But I discovered two days ago
that I have two skills particularly valuable in an Icelandic tourist: the
ability to drive in snowy conditions and the ability to handle a manual
transmission. I made new friends Shivani
and Bhaskar, rented a VW Golf with them (best way to see the country, but too
pricy for a solo traveler), and cruised on up to Snaefellnes Peninsula. Stykkshulmur was a perfect little town, and I
could stay there for months. It’s
beautiful and has very little there. Two
restaurants, a bakery, a pool, and a fishing fleet. And wifi.
What could be better? Iceland has
such great food! The fish are so fresh
and delicious! And at the end of any day
you can go to the public pool and hop into hot water. Very, very civilized.
Stykkshulmur
As for the peninsula itself: I know that in this blog I have
oft mentioned howling winds. The bell
tower in Bruges. Malta. The Millau Bridge. It brings to mind this exchange from The
Princess Bride:
Vizzini: I can't compete
with you physically, and you're no match for my brains.
Man in Black: You're that smart?
Vizzini: Let me put it this way. Have you ever heard of Plato, Aristotle, Socrates?
Man in Black: Yes.
Vizzini: Morons.
Man in Black: You're that smart?
Vizzini: Let me put it this way. Have you ever heard of Plato, Aristotle, Socrates?
Man in Black: Yes.
Vizzini: Morons.
The wind in Iceland doesn’t howl. It bays, it yips, it shakes you to the ground
and shimmies you back upright just to see how much yoga you’ve done in the past
few months. I have never been in winds
like this before. And for all that, it’s
completely beautiful. One moment snow,
the next sunshine. Lava, ocean,
glaciers, fields, ponies….
Now back in Reykjavik, and I have been touristing
around. Looking at churches and parks
and such. The architecture here is very
striking. There is no school for
architecture in Iceland so everyone is trained elsewhere and brings back ideas
with them. And virtually all building
materials are imported. There is a rare
lava rock building or a sod house, but that’s just the outliers. But more than that what surprises me is this:
heat is cheap here. The geothermal power
plants are very efficient. So even being
in a northern clime, houses are not built in the manner of those I am
accustomed to in North America and Scandinavia.
Windows are kept open all year.
Floors are heated. Warm water is
available everywhere. So triple paned
windows aren’t used. Metal roofs are
okay. It’s just discombobulating.
Also discombobulating: the Iceland Phallological
Museum. This started with one man’s (ha)
passion for all things penile. About
half of the collection is whale members.
I’ll just let you look if you wish.



What gorgeous countryside...I love the radioactive green building--how could you not smile, seeing that in the dead of winter?
ReplyDeleteMembership has its privileges.
ReplyDelete