Scootched on over to the Netherlands, visiting Kate P. in
Utrecht. Since Utrecht is only a
comfortable 30 minutes by train from Amsterdam I’m doing some touring there
too. I realized I haven’t been here
since I was 13. But I remember it so
well. Mum and I went to the Anne Frank
House and the Rembrandt Museum.
This time around I have visited the Van Gogh exhibit at the
Hermitage Museum. The Van Gogh Museum
itself is under renovation, so they trotted the pieces over to the Hermitage
space. Since that space is usually for
rotating loans from the Hermitage in Russia.
Interesting that the Dutch government bargained to receive rotating
loans from that collection. I wonder how
much they pay for it. Turns out that I
do not care much for Van Gogh’s portraits of peasants, tho he liked to think of
himself as a peasant painter. They are a
bit too caricature-y, with his aggressively warts and all approach. I like his work from the south of France the
best.
Then wandered down canal and I popped into the Rijksmuseum,
which was also under renovation. As a
result, they only had about a dozen rooms open.
Sort of a greatest hits and at a discounted ticket price. Worked for me! Then into the Diamond Museum to learn a bit
about cutting and polishing. Bit dull
that one - I’d skip it. Rounded off the
day at the Bols House. Distillers and
makers of Genever, and those little Delft houses you get from KLM. Made me think of you, Alan! Did you know the term ‘Dutch Courage’ came
from drinking Bols?
KLM Bols Delft Houses
My mind is still on architectural musings. The Soviet style I left behind in the East is built so that everyone has the same apartment layout (essentially), but there is no privacy. Big, wide open spaces where everyone can be observed, no gathering spots to chat, very oppressive.
The architectural difference seems to be between uber-planning and hey, can we fit another house along this canal? And who needs right angles anyway!?
In Utrecht, every apartment is different. The spaces are fun and funky. I assume some must be musty and damp, but I am happily ensconced in the cozy variety. Streets are narrow and brick, so sightlines are short. Small parks appear behind walls. Still not total privacy. The small packed spaces mean people looking in your window and you hear people walking past on those bricks. And hear birds chirping and cats meowing. Somehow the difference between being observed and observing feels completely different here. Spring is also more advanced here, and the on-the-verge-of-blossoming world is beautiful.
A barge just floated past full of beer kegs. Delivering to all the bars along the canal. Love it. Working on the canals must mean seeing the city in a sort of photo negative. Maybe that’s why I’m happy here – even the houses feel like boats.
Seriously. Boat of kegs, with delivery crane.
Maybe love is just stroopwafle.
Mmmm, stroopwaffle!
ReplyDeleteI think I agree with you about Van Gogh... I had to write an entire paper for a class once about The Potato Eaters, which just gave me terrible bleak feelings and made me avoid potatoes for a long time. His use of color from his Paris years onward are much more pleasing to me.
Now I'm left wondering if a Utrecht style lack of privacy would be more or less palatable to me than my current dueling blenders situation? :)
Why, I don't know, but the waffle is pretty damn funny. Also, ever time I see "Utrecht", I think f art supplies, because, well--there's an art supply store here named "Utrecht".
ReplyDeleteI have fond memories of the Van Gogh museum. It was the first time I had seen the originals, with the texture such that the fields and waves just came off the canvas... or maybe that was because of the brownies
ReplyDelete